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THURSDAY, JUNE 3, 2004 Star Grill Successful Marriage between Funk 'n' SophisticationThe Discreet Diner with The Winnipeg Sun June 03, 2004 The Star Grill manages to pull of a rare mixture of funk and sophistication. The service is rather good and the décor is mildly insane – another unexpected mélange that works nicely. Picture a smallish restaurant with several cozy booths and few inviting tables, along with tons of silver stars floating hitcher and yon, numerous galaxy type ornaments and filmy curtains on the windows and you still won’t quite have the atmosphere. Best to go and see and savour for yourself. Make reservations first, because this joint is popular. The Discreet Diner and The Friend were awarded a window table upon a recent visit and loved the sidewalk view of strollers out to enjoy the beginning of what we all hope is summer. Amid pleasant sounds from the guitar playing in the tiny lobby, we perused the Star’s eclectic menu. For appetizers, we considered the jalapeno shrimp with Thai basil and coconut milk ($10.95), paused over the scallops in a tomato Chardonnay sauce ($10.95) and almost gave in to the Asian pork and veggie spring rolls ($8.75). In the end, though, it was the lemon-pepper calamari with sweet chili sauce (48.95) which captured TF’s attention while the coconut encrusted mango shrimp got to the DD. The calamari arrived in such tasty abundance that they would have fed two, maybe three people, and the shrimp were large, fat and flavourful. TF wanted fish – pickerel to be exact – and lit upon the Manitoba pickerel with garlic lemon-pepper sauce ($20) with alacrity, if not a touch of unseemly greed. Choosing an entrée was not so easy for the DD because the menu offered too many interesting alternatives. The blackened Caribbean salmon ($20) sounded quite smashing, as did the Chardonnay chicken with scallops ($22) and the almond encrusted pork tenderloin with a Tequila apricot sauce ($21) almost won out. That was before the DD’s eye fell upon the stir fry section which beckoned with its red curry stir fry with fresh veggies in coconut mile with Thai basil ($19), not to mention the spicy Szechuan peanut sauce, rice noodles with water chestnuts, peppers, bean sprouts and onions – also $19. Finally, as TF waited a trifle impatiently, the DD discovered the pasta section. The crispy Chinese sesame chicken linguini in a soya-ginger sauce ($19) sounded most yummy while the hemp basil pesto linguini with tomatoes and mushrooms ($18) sounded intriguing. It was, however, the lemon caper seafood linguini with shrimp, scallops and salmon ($23) which made the cut. The linguini was most satisfactory, with a delicate sauce which enhanced the seafood but did not overpower it – something every chef must consider when fetching up seafood for clients. TF meanwhile was a tiny bit disgruntled with her pickerel because she felt it was, indeed overpowered somewhat by the sauce. “Pickerel has a distinctive but delicate taste,” she said. “And you have to be careful not to cover it up.” She offered your DD a bite and she was right – the flavour did indeed come from the sauce and not the fish itself. One of the fine things about the Star Grill is that all their meals come with a choice of salad – The Star, Field of Greens, Paradise or Caesar. The Star includes romaine, tomatoes, cucumbers, oranges and almonds with a balsamic vinaigrette; Field of Greens offers broccoli, carrots, tomatoes, onions and romaine in a basil rosemary olive-oil, and romaine is a basil rosemary olive-oil vinaigrette and mozzarella cheese. It was, however, the Paradise, with its fresh fruit, romaine and cucumbers in a honey-Dijon vinaigrette, which attracted us. We had just enough room for dessert and chose two varieties of chocolate cake. Both of us were a little disappointed with desserts which looked great but which turned out to be rather heavy and bland. And it is here that the DD wishes to question trend in many Winnipeg restaurants to serve gargantuan desserts which constitute a meal in themselves. Not good. Better to offer a small delicacy which gently compliments the meal and lingers temptingly in the memory. The bill came to $100.12 with tip. As an-after dinner bonus, patrons can take a leisurely evening stroll through Assiniboine Park to work off a few of the calories, enjoy the greenery and admire the many dogs out walking their humans. PREVIOUS | NEXT | BACK TO INDEX |
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